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July 24

The Movers Don't Move, The Shakers Rarely Twitch

Nepal’s Hindu monarchy fell more than two years ago following massive protests led by the Maoist Party. Nepal was declared a secular democratic republic. An interim government was established by a fairly honest election to develop a Constitution defining how the republic’s government will be structured, the rights of the people, and so on. The deadline was May 2010. 


The election resulted in 229 seats (38%) for the Communist Party of Nepal – Maoist (CPN), 115 (19%) for the previously dominant Nepali Congress Party (NC), 108 (18%) for the Communist Party of Nepal - United Marxist-Leninist (UML), 82 for what became a bloc of four parties from the Tarai (southern plains bordering India) and 65 seats for 19 fringe parties.  A coalition government was necessary.  After long negotiations the Maoist leader, Prachanda, emerged as head of the interim government. 


The Maoists had been accepted into the political process after ending their civil war and their large guerilla army was placed in temporary camps before returning to normal life.  Prachanda declared their normal life would be in Nepal’s national army, the army chief refused to accept them en masse, Prachanda fired him, rival politicians declared that unlawful, Prachanda resigned and was replaced by the UML leader.  That took months to unfold.  Meanwhile there was and has continued to be no discernable progress on the Constitution or anything else.  When the Constitution was not done on time, the politicians gave themselves another year and began jostling for who would replace Prachanda’s replacement.   They held an election this past Wednesday with no winner.  They held another two days later. Again there was no result.


The UML withdrew their candidate then abstained from voting after a last-minute alliance with the Maoists fell through (the two communist parties hold 57% of the parliamentary seats but are rivals).  The Tarai bloc also abstained saying they will only vote for a candidate whose party supports an autonomous state in the Tarai. With nearly 200 MPs refusing to vote, neither Prachanda nor his NC rival can get a majority. UML leaders are urging the CPN and NC to propose new candidates to break the deadlock. Prachanda, once considered a visionary who led a successful revolution, now looks like a dog in the manger who would support other parties’ candidates instead of new leadership in his own party. Nepalis see all their politicians as self-seeking, treacherous and corrupt.






12:51 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

May 09

General strike in Nepal was just a trailer
Earlier today Maoist chairman Prachanda said: "Our peaceful and disciplined general strike was just a trailer. They (the government) will see the entire film if they don't decide now." The Maoists will wait two days for their demands to be met. "It was not because of the peace rally or any other pressure that we decided to stop the general strike” he said. “We had been discussing for some days about changing the nature of protest and only arrived at a decision Friday evening." During this speech at a mass meeting in Kathmandu he attacked the media and 'Kathmandu elites' for not responding positively to the Maoist protest movement and claimed government-sanctioned 'vigilantes' hijacked the peace rally organized by the professional groups. I was wrong for much too short a time.


3:53 AM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

May 08

I’m very happy to have been wrong, for a while

Yesterday evening Maoist chairman Prachanda announced "We have decided to stop the general strike considering the difficulty caused to the ordinary people, and also in view of the conspiracy hatched by this government to instigate violence".

 

What happened?  He knew a general strike would “cause difficulty to the ordinary people”. It caused more than he hoped because it lasted longer - the government did not collapse. The trigger for his announcement was not a conspiracy but a rally of thousands of people earlier in the day organized by the Professional Alliance for Peace and Democracy (PAPAD). He realized the Maoists were about to lose any pretence of legitimacy. Their cadres were enforcing the strike with threats while soldiers patrolled ready to respond but there had so far been little fighting. The food shortage was growing acute, however, and now there was a Maoist-style mass demonstration by the people against both the government and the Maoists. He knew the strike could only be continued with real force. His claim to be fighting for the people would be destroyed by violence against them in full view of the media. 

 

What comes next?  “We have not stopped our people's movement” Prachanda said. There will be continuing protests until May 28, the deadline to issue the new constitution. He did not say what the Maoists will do when the deadline is not met. He termed the current 22-party government a "curse to the nation” while claiming the protests are not aimed just to get the Maoists into power. He speaks, I’m afraid, with forked tongue.

5:03 AM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

May 06

Update - Nepal and my Book

Today is the 5th day of the general strike in Nepal. The immediate future for my friends looks dangerous and the longer term looks worse. It’s heart-breaking. Yesterday I finished restoring spontaneity to Chapter 15, the last one about treks in Nepal, Sikkim and Tibet. Now I’ll do the same to the even-numbered chapters about history and culture. There’s the introduction and one more chapter to write (Mongol influence on Nepal and Tibet) then I can figure out how to publish it and turn to understanding the recent past in Nepal and Tibet to see their future more clearly and if there’s any way to be of real help.


In April 2008 the Maoist party won 30% of the seats in Nepal’s Constituent Assembly. The king had been forced to abdicate and Nepal was declared a democratic secular republic. The Assembly was elected to govern on an interim basis and develop a new constitution by the end of May 2010. There would then be an election for a new government structured to that constitution. There was confusion while leaders of the other parties jockeyed for position and ways to limit his power before Maoist leader, Prachanda, became head of a coalition government. Little or nothing happened after that until he fired the army chief who resisted absorbing Maoist “soldiers” wholesale into Nepal’s army. That was declared unconstitutional, the army chief was reinstated and Prachanda resigned. The coalition government has since then continued to make little or no progress on the new constitution or anything else.

 

We’ll never know how many of the April 2008 votes for the Maoists were fraudulent or forced. It was not the free and fair election reported by foreign observers but many people did like the Maoist promises. That support eroded when the Maoist-led government failed to fulfill its promises. Their remaining support is now dropping fast. Before the Peace Accord that made the 2008 election possible, Maoist guerillas had gained control of rural Nepal. They supported themselves by extorting food and cash from the villagers. After the Accord Maoist “soldiers” were housed in camps pending their return to civilian life or transfer to Nepal’s army. The camps are still full because most Maoist cadres are not trained soldiers and very few jobs exist in Nepal’s broken economy. Some have been quietly replaced by forced conscripts. They moved into the towns to extort money from business owners and “union dues” from the workers. They are the hard core of the current general strike. Media reports say the strike is peaceful. They do not report that villagers were forced to send one member of each family to join the demonstration or pay a 5,000 rupee “fine” (more than a month’s wages for most of those lucky enough to have a job). They do not report that “protesters” who tried to go home to plant crops when rain came were forced to stay by cadres with sticks. The media says shop-keepers can sell food from 6 to 8 pm, not that cadres with sticks force many shops not to open at all. Prachanda knows his remaining support is eroding fast. This strike is his last best chance to get power in a way that could look like popular will. He will not, I think, settle for a meaningless agreement to end this strike. That means it can only end when the other parties allow him to take control, or mobilize the army as strike-breakers. Army leaders must be lobbying for that because Prachanda will replace them if he gets real power.




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December 22

The Sugumbasi

The sugumbasi occupy open land on the Kathmandu river banks.  I went with my friend Gandhiji to learn about them.  Many are refugees from hill villages.  They’re often from large families with enough land to support the parents but not enough for all the children.  When the parents die the younger sons are left landless.  They started coming to Kathmandu 25 or 30 years ago because they could get day laboring work.  Later, some folks who rent shops in the city chose to live this way because it's cheaper.


The big change came when the government gave land to a few long-established squatters.  Land that was worthless to whoever owned it from long ago suddenly had value because it might be bought by the government.  Meanwhile the number of refugees grew, especially after Maoist rebels took over the hills a few years ago, supported themselves by stealing from villagers, and began abducting children for ‘education’.  After a while new refugees were unable to find any open land to capture.  They had to get someone already living there to move.  That’s an established practice in Nepal.  To open a shop in Kathmandu, for example, you must pay a shop-keeper to leave even though they do not own the shop. 


How can you pay someone to move if you have no money?   You must borrow.  Why would anyone lend someone with no income the money for land they would not own?  Maybe a higher bidder (the greater fool theory) would come or the government would buy that land and give it to the occupant who would then give half to the lender.  The real estate bubble in Kathmandu has led some wealthy residents to pay people to come from remote villages and occupy land.  Brokers go round looking for people who will move.  Land in the northern suburbs now sells for around 6 lakh per ana.  No need to explain lakh or ana, the ratio is what’s important.  It will cost you half to two thirds that amount now to get a sugumbasi to move from river bank land he doesn’t own.


An old lady who came here twenty years ago told us how she and her husband raised a family and at last managed to replace their scrap and plastic shack with the brick building where she lives and has a tiny tea shop.  She must do everything herself since her husband died.  Her children are no help; they’re just waiting for her to die so they can sell the place.  Her friend, another old woman in a similar situation, laughed and told us an old Nepali proverb about children; “When they’re young, you’re afraid they’ll die.  When they’re grown, you’re afraid they’ll kill you.”



7:52 AM GMT  |  Read comments(1)

December 21

Banda in Nepal

Oh, Nepal.  The country is at a standstill again today.  A three day general strike, the latest Maoist ‘agitation’, has closed all government offices, shops and schools for a second day, all transport is stopped and there’s fighting in the streets.


Seven months ago Prachanda the Maoist head of government resigned because his firing of the army chief had been over-ruled.   The government and army used to report to the king but it’s not clear who has power now the monarchy has fallen.  This strike is the latest of escalating protests over ‘civilian supremacy' which the Maoists say was infringed when the army chief was reinstated.  He was refusing entry of all former Maoist guerilla ‘soldiers’ into the army, saying only those who are suitable candidates should be admitted.  The real issue was the threat of Maoist ‘officers’ gaining control of the army.


The Maoists entered politics after signing a peace agreement in 2006.  Their soldiers have been in supervised camps ever since.  In last April’s election Maoists got 30% of the vote.  International observers said the election was free and fair and so it was where they were stationed.  In other places voters were intimidated and ballot boxes stuffed.  It’s impossible to know how many legitimate votes were cast but the Maoists did have widespread support.  The established politicians had accomplished nothing but their own enrichment.  “The movers never move” as one newspaper reported “and the shakers rarely twitch.” It took four months to form a Maoist-led coalition.  Many were optimistic even if they did not vote for the Maoists.  They hoped new leaders could get the country moving. “But what did they do?” a friend said recently.  “Nothing!”  One with lower expectations showed me an article about Nepal’s most dangerous 251 gang-leaders.  They rarely went to jail even for murder and never stayed more than a week before bribed politicians got them out but she said the Maoist leaders kept the murderers in jail. 


For the past seven months Maoist protests have been escalating.  They pay the poorest people to take to the streets and enforce strikes but their rhetoric resonates truly with many.  Of course it does.  Most Nepalis live in poverty and prices for rice and lentils have doubled in the past year.  It’s hard to find reasons to be optimistic in Nepal today even though I’m optimistic by nature.  “Such great people, such a bad government,” I said recently and added that I’ve often said the same about my own country but I have more hope now.  “But you had only one George Bush” the man sadly replied.  “We have thousands.   They are the government, the administration, everything.  George Bushes are all we have."



3:36 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

November 06

Shangrila
The first impression formed by many visitors to the Himalayas is that this actually is Shangrila, the magical land of fiction stumbled upon in "Lost Horizon", a land of extraordinary beauty where everyone is joyful.  OK, most people don't get that feeling on Kathmandu's garbage strewn dirt roads breathing the dust and smoke, a third world environment in the bad sense, but as soon as they get out of town they're overwhelmed by the beauty of the land and people.  Some of us even feel inexplicably at home in Kathmandu itself.  The cheerful innocence and liveliness of the people, the colors, they mask the squalor and we simply don't notice the dark side.  Well, most of the time we don't.

But there really is a dark side to all this.  Yesterday's newspaper had front-page pictures of the 13 biggest gang leaders in Kathmandu.  Inside was a list of their 220 top lieutenants.  These gangs make money from drug and weapon sales, kidnapping and extortion, the usual recipe.  Sometimes the gang leaders go to prison - one recently went in for committing 12 murders - but they're usually out within a week.  The make substantial donations to the political leaders who get them released.  I was delayed last night because the police were blocking microbuses on my usual route.  That's because a microbus ran into four pedestrians there earlier in the day killing three and critically injuring the fourth.  The driver ran away and bystanders torched the microbus. 

In a couple of days I'm off to Bhutan ( the Maoists have called off their planned blockade of the airport).  Bhutan is publicized as the last real Shangrila, a land of peace and beauty, the real deal.  A little research reveals the regime is highly autocratic, however.  The large numbers of Nepali immigrants must wear Bhutanese national dress and adopt other traditional Bhutanese customs.  If they question their treatment they are imprisoned.  If they protest that they have their own culture they may be tortured, too. 

I'm eager to see how I respond to my first visit to Bhutan now that I have a more educated love for the people of this region.  



8:40 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

November 02

Being Grateful for your Life
One of the many attractive Buddhist teachings is that we should practice being grateful for our life.  I often was grateful throughout my previous lives for the extraordinary set of circumstances that gave me life. Feeling grateful joy for the moment has become a much more frequent experience since I started taking medication to correct my body's serotonin uptake.  Feeling happy, grateful, and contentedly joyful  is especially easy in this succession of moments because I watched the sun rise on the peaks of Annapurna and Fishtail this morning then paraglided down to land beside Pokhara's Lake Fewa.  My gruff Bulgarian pilot - it was a tandem flight, of course - was cross with me because I failed to follow his takeoff direction to "run like hell".  I sat down prematurely because I thought we were airborn.  He was cross again when I failed to follow his landing direction to "run like hell".  There was more downward momentum than I expected so my knees buckled and we simply stopped where we touched down instead of making a dramatic show.  But none of that mattered.  Flying is very, very cool.  I shall not do it again today and maybe I will never do it again.  Having done it today is enough, so much more than enough.  Being alive is so much more than enough.   


1:41 AM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

October 31

Sort of Buddhists
The Nepali government census data says 87% of Nepalis are Hindu, 8% Buddhist, 3% Muslim and 2% Christian or animist.  How can that be?  When you trek in the hills most people you meet are Buddhist or animist, "sort of Buddhist" as my trek guide once explained.  There are Hindus up there, too, of course, but they are far from the dominant majority.  I assumed the books had been cooked.  Until the very recent past Nepal was a Hindu kingdom.  All government was by wealthy Hindus at the center.  But the truth is more interesting.

Almost everyone in the village where my adopted Nepali family come from were Hindu until four or five years ago.  Everyone in my family carried chickens to be ritually sacrificed at the important Hindu festivals.  A decade ago the trickle of young people who had always emigrated from the hills to the cities began to increase and around five years ago at the height of the Maoist "activities" many people left the villages for the safety of the cities.  Those people learned about Buddhism.  There had been no Buddhist monastery or teachers in my family's village, just like most villages.  The way it happened in their case is one of the daughters married a Buddhist from Manang, a strongly Tibetan-influenced mountain district.  He taught her Buddhism and it made sense to her. She taught her sisters, her brother and her mother.  Now they are all Buddhist. 

Buddhism appeals to my Nepali family because of its ethics and also because they think of Hinduism as the religion of the wealthy oppressors, the king and the politicians.  Their religion cannot be the right one for poor people from the villagers.  I imagine the same thing must have happened in many villages.  The next time a census is taken, if it is done honestly, the population will likely appear to have abandoned Hinduism.  That will be true in a literal sense.  At a deeper level, many who thought they were Hindu never were, anyway.  They always were "sort of Buddhists".       



11:37 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

A Good Day not to be in Kathmandu
The Maoist party is starting its latest two weeks of protests today.  A massive rally scheduled for this evening is already starting on the streets of Kathmandu.  In the next few days all government offices will be blockaded.  On the day I'm scheduled to fly to Bhutan every entry and exit to the Kathmandu Valley will be blocked, including the airport.  We're hoping the Bhutanese airline will reschedule our flight to the previous or next day but it will be a big problem getting to the airport in any case.  The protest is said to be about "civilian supremacy".  A few months ago Nepal's Prime Minister, the Maoist leader, fired the army leader.  He had been resisting integration of the Maoist "soldiers" into the army.  The other parties in the coalition government (the Maoists had won 30% of the vote in the election, not enough to control the government) forced the PM to resign and his successor reinstated the army chief.  The Maoists claim the PM had the right to dismiss the army chief.



11:18 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

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