Himalayan Explorations

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December 22

The Sugumbasi

The sugumbasi occupy open land on the Kathmandu river banks.  I went with my friend Gandhiji to learn about them.  Many are refugees from hill villages.  They’re often from large families with enough land to support the parents but not enough for all the children.  When the parents die the younger sons are left landless.  They started coming to Kathmandu 25 or 30 years ago because they could get day laboring work.  Later, some folks who rent shops in the city chose to live this way because it's cheaper.


The big change came when the government gave land to a few long-established squatters.  Land that was worthless to whoever owned it from long ago suddenly had value because it might be bought by the government.  Meanwhile the number of refugees grew, especially after Maoist rebels took over the hills a few years ago, supported themselves by stealing from villagers, and began abducting children for ‘education’.  After a while new refugees were unable to find any open land to capture.  They had to get someone already living there to move.  That’s an established practice in Nepal.  To open a shop in Kathmandu, for example, you must pay a shop-keeper to leave even though they do not own the shop. 


How can you pay someone to move if you have no money?   You must borrow.  Why would anyone lend someone with no income the money for land they would not own?  Maybe a higher bidder (the greater fool theory) would come or the government would buy that land and give it to the occupant who would then give half to the lender.  The real estate bubble in Kathmandu has led some wealthy residents to pay people to come from remote villages and occupy land.  Brokers go round looking for people who will move.  Land in the northern suburbs now sells for around 6 lakh per ana.  No need to explain lakh or ana, the ratio is what’s important.  It will cost you half to two thirds that amount now to get a sugumbasi to move from river bank land he doesn’t own.


An old lady who came here twenty years ago told us how she and her husband raised a family and at last managed to replace their scrap and plastic shack with the brick building where she lives and has a tiny tea shop.  She must do everything herself since her husband died.  Her children are no help; they’re just waiting for her to die so they can sell the place.  Her friend, another old woman in a similar situation, laughed and told us an old Nepali proverb about children; “When they’re young, you’re afraid they’ll die.  When they’re grown, you’re afraid they’ll kill you.”



7:52 AM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

December 21

Banda in Nepal

Oh, Nepal.  The country is at a standstill again today.  A three day general strike, the latest Maoist ‘agitation’, has closed all government offices, shops and schools for a second day, all transport is stopped and there’s fighting in the streets.


Seven months ago Prachanda the Maoist head of government resigned because his firing of the army chief had been over-ruled.   The government and army used to report to the king but it’s not clear who has power now the monarchy has fallen.  This strike is the latest of escalating protests over ‘civilian supremacy' which the Maoists say was infringed when the army chief was reinstated.  He was refusing entry of all former Maoist guerilla ‘soldiers’ into the army, saying only those who are suitable candidates should be admitted.  The real issue was the threat of Maoist ‘officers’ gaining control of the army.


The Maoists entered politics after signing a peace agreement in 2006.  Their soldiers have been in supervised camps ever since.  In last April’s election Maoists got 30% of the vote.  International observers said the election was free and fair and so it was where they were stationed.  In other places voters were intimidated and ballot boxes stuffed.  It’s impossible to know how many legitimate votes were cast but the Maoists did have widespread support.  The established politicians had accomplished nothing but their own enrichment.  “The movers never move” as one newspaper reported “and the shakers rarely twitch.” It took four months to form a Maoist-led coalition.  Many were optimistic even if they did not vote for the Maoists.  They hoped new leaders could get the country moving. “But what did they do?” a friend said recently.  “Nothing!”  One with lower expectations showed me an article about Nepal’s most dangerous 251 gang-leaders.  They rarely went to jail even for murder and never stayed more than a week before bribed politicians got them out but she said the Maoist leaders kept the murderers in jail. 


For the past seven months Maoist protests have been escalating.  They pay the poorest people to take to the streets and enforce strikes but their rhetoric resonates truly with many.  Of course it does.  Most Nepalis live in poverty and prices for rice and lentils have doubled in the past year.  It’s hard to find reasons to be optimistic in Nepal today even though I’m optimistic by nature.  “Such great people, such a bad government,” I said recently and added that I’ve often said the same about my own country but I have more hope now.  “But you had only one George Bush” the man sadly replied.  “We have thousands.   They are the government, the administration, everything.  George Bushes are all we have."



3:36 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

November 06

Shangrila
The first impression formed by many visitors to the Himalayas is that this actually is Shangrila, the magical land of fiction stumbled upon in "Lost Horizon", a land of extraordinary beauty where everyone is joyful.  OK, most people don't get that feeling on Kathmandu's garbage strewn dirt roads breathing the dust and smoke, a third world environment in the bad sense, but as soon as they get out of town they're overwhelmed by the beauty of the land and people.  Some of us even feel inexplicably at home in Kathmandu itself.  The cheerful innocence and liveliness of the people, the colors, they mask the squalor and we simply don't notice the dark side.  Well, most of the time we don't.

But there really is a dark side to all this.  Yesterday's newspaper had front-page pictures of the 13 biggest gang leaders in Kathmandu.  Inside was a list of their 220 top lieutenants.  These gangs make money from drug and weapon sales, kidnapping and extortion, the usual recipe.  Sometimes the gang leaders go to prison - one recently went in for committing 12 murders - but they're usually out within a week.  The make substantial donations to the political leaders who get them released.  I was delayed last night because the police were blocking microbuses on my usual route.  That's because a microbus ran into four pedestrians there earlier in the day killing three and critically injuring the fourth.  The driver ran away and bystanders torched the microbus. 

In a couple of days I'm off to Bhutan ( the Maoists have called off their planned blockade of the airport).  Bhutan is publicized as the last real Shangrila, a land of peace and beauty, the real deal.  A little research reveals the regime is highly autocratic, however.  The large numbers of Nepali immigrants must wear Bhutanese national dress and adopt other traditional Bhutanese customs.  If they question their treatment they are imprisoned.  If they protest that they have their own culture they may be tortured, too. 

I'm eager to see how I respond to my first visit to Bhutan now that I have a more educated love for the people of this region.  



8:40 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

November 02

Being Grateful for your Life
One of the many attractive Buddhist teachings is that we should practice being grateful for our life.  I often was grateful throughout my previous lives for the extraordinary set of circumstances that gave me life. Feeling grateful joy for the moment has become a much more frequent experience since I started taking medication to correct my body's serotonin uptake.  Feeling happy, grateful, and contentedly joyful  is especially easy in this succession of moments because I watched the sun rise on the peaks of Annapurna and Fishtail this morning then paraglided down to land beside Pokhara's Lake Fewa.  My gruff Bulgarian pilot - it was a tandem flight, of course - was cross with me because I failed to follow his takeoff direction to "run like hell".  I sat down prematurely because I thought we were airborn.  He was cross again when I failed to follow his landing direction to "run like hell".  There was more downward momentum than I expected so my knees buckled and we simply stopped where we touched down instead of making a dramatic show.  But none of that mattered.  Flying is very, very cool.  I shall not do it again today and maybe I will never do it again.  Having done it today is enough, so much more than enough.  Being alive is so much more than enough.   


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October 31

Sort of Buddhists
The Nepali government census data says 87% of Nepalis are Hindu, 8% Buddhist, 3% Muslim and 2% Christian or animist.  How can that be?  When you trek in the hills most people you meet are Buddhist or animist, "sort of Buddhist" as my trek guide once explained.  There are Hindus up there, too, of course, but they are far from the dominant majority.  I assumed the books had been cooked.  Until the very recent past Nepal was a Hindu kingdom.  All government was by wealthy Hindus at the center.  But the truth is more interesting.

Almost everyone in the village where my adopted Nepali family come from were Hindu until four or five years ago.  Everyone in my family carried chickens to be ritually sacrificed at the important Hindu festivals.  A decade ago the trickle of young people who had always emigrated from the hills to the cities began to increase and around five years ago at the height of the Maoist "activities" many people left the villages for the safety of the cities.  Those people learned about Buddhism.  There had been no Buddhist monastery or teachers in my family's village, just like most villages.  The way it happened in their case is one of the daughters married a Buddhist from Manang, a strongly Tibetan-influenced mountain district.  He taught her Buddhism and it made sense to her. She taught her sisters, her brother and her mother.  Now they are all Buddhist. 

Buddhism appeals to my Nepali family because of its ethics and also because they think of Hinduism as the religion of the wealthy oppressors, the king and the politicians.  Their religion cannot be the right one for poor people from the villagers.  I imagine the same thing must have happened in many villages.  The next time a census is taken, if it is done honestly, the population will likely appear to have abandoned Hinduism.  That will be true in a literal sense.  At a deeper level, many who thought they were Hindu never were, anyway.  They always were "sort of Buddhists".       



11:37 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

A Good Day not to be in Kathmandu
The Maoist party is starting its latest two weeks of protests today.  A massive rally scheduled for this evening is already starting on the streets of Kathmandu.  In the next few days all government offices will be blockaded.  On the day I'm scheduled to fly to Bhutan every entry and exit to the Kathmandu Valley will be blocked, including the airport.  We're hoping the Bhutanese airline will reschedule our flight to the previous or next day but it will be a big problem getting to the airport in any case.  The protest is said to be about "civilian supremacy".  A few months ago Nepal's Prime Minister, the Maoist leader, fired the army leader.  He had been resisting integration of the Maoist "soldiers" into the army.  The other parties in the coalition government (the Maoists had won 30% of the vote in the election, not enough to control the government) forced the PM to resign and his successor reinstated the army chief.  The Maoists claim the PM had the right to dismiss the army chief.



11:18 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

October 23

Sugumbasi
The Sugumbasi are Nepali people who have no money.  There are probably additional criteria but I do not yet know.  My friend, NG, knows one of them who has a tea shop in Kathmandu's tourist district, Thamel.  Hewas going to take me to talk with this man and then we would go to where the government gave the Sugumbasi land next to a river that now acts as one of Kathmandu's drains.  My Nepali family say the Sugumbasi are bad people who fight and steal, even the women.  NG says they are people just like any others but their behavior is not so good.  He knows one of them somehow got ownership of the land where he made his shack and then sold the land.  We want to know how he did that.  But Tihar was too much for NG.  He says there are too many people and too much dirt in Kathmandu at all times.  It is worse at Tihar.  So he had to escape to Pokhara for a few days, a more peaceful resort town a few hours away from Kathmandu by bus.  While he is there I came in Bangkok.  The mental anguish I said was caused by my broken bag paid off with a cheap ticket.  Bankok seems very clean after Kathmandu but it is very hot and sticky.  Who would ever imagine Kathmandu would seem the better place to be?


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October 22

Tihar and the Future
Tihar is celebrated in different ways by different castes/tribes/families.  That's not surprising because around a hundred different languages are spoken in Nepal.  The population of 25-30 million is divided into Hindus in the southern lowlands and western hills who came originally from India, Buddhists in the high northern mountains who came originally from Tibet, and people in the middle hills who are a mix.  Many of them are animists. 

In theory Nepal became a unified nation in the late 1700s.  In reality it remained a collection of disparate tribes.  Its dynasty of kings became puppets in the mid-1800s.  The central government was then operated as a family business by a Hindu family for the next century and the country was shut off from the outside world.  In 1951 the king regained control with help from India.  Since then there has been an ongoing seesaw between autocratic rule by kings and attempts at democratic rule by an elected government. 

Until the Maoists came along in the mid-1990s nothing really changed.  They gained popularity by appealing to ethnic pride and promising to establish a government in which the non-Hindu minorities would be represented.  They got the largest part of the popular vote (30%) in a fair and free democratic election just over a year ago and tried to establish such a government and get a new constitution written. 

The Maoists' only real success so far has been to raise expectations.  They claim politicians from the other parties blocked them.  The other parties say the Maoists had no mandate for what they attempted.  There is now a completely ineffective government of the corrupt and ineffective old gang.  "The movers never move" as a newspaper editorial explained, "and the shakers rarely even twitch." 

It's hard to be optimistic about Nepal's future.  Every other nation in South-Central Asia has made tremendous economic progress since WW2.  But it is at least now OK not to be Hindu in Nepal and 2 million Nepalis are working overseas and seeing other cultures. 

Nepalis work very hard overseas but too many Nepali men do not work hard at home.  They do not believe they can achieve anything by doing so.  Setting a strategy for a better future for Nepal is a hard problem.  I've decided that since I solved very hard problems in my business career (and failed to solve some, too) I ought to be able to work out a solution for Nepal.  I will report on my progress.



7:49 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

October 18

Tihar
Tihar is a Hindu festival to propitiate Yama, Lord of Death. The many Buddhists, animists, Muslims and others in Nepal also celebrate this festival with enthusiasm because Yama will send for us all without regard to what we believe and, anyway, this is a fine time to enjoy the fireworks that are illegal in Nepal but openly on sale everywhere.

On the first day we honor the crow, Yama's messenger.  He's a scavenger, a sad creature.  We place flowers and food in a basket of sal leaves on this day and set it on the terrace.  Crow will not need to scavenge today.  He will be happy and will not not bring sorrow to our house in the coming year.

On the second day we honor dogs.  They guard Yama's gates and we are grateful for their loyalty.  We place a garland of flowers round their neck, and perhaps also a tikka on their forehead. 

The third day is for cows.  Their plentiful milk symbolizes abundance.  When evening comes we place small oil lamps and candles in every entrance to our house, both doors and windows.  We paint a brightly colored path along the hallway from our front door to the door of every room.  At each door's entrance we make a painted circle and place an oil lamp at the center.  On each side of every door we place a candle.  Lakshmi,
goddess of peace and prosperity, will be attracted by the pretty lights and happy that we have given gifts to our cattle.  She will come to our house to see the lights and follow the path to every room.  We hope she will bring peace and prosperity to our family this year.  To help attract Lakshmi groups of boys will come to our front door and chant.  We should give them money, 20 rupees for small boys, 50 for big ones.

On the fourth day we do not honor any specific animal.  We make puja again and work to purify ourselves, soul and body.  Again we will clean our house thoroughly.  
 

One the fifth day sisters must make puja for their brothers and place the seven-colored tikka on their forehead.  Brothers will give sisters gifts in return.  It is most important for Yama to spare brothers for another year.





1:39 AM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

October 16

Every Dog Has His Day
Yesterday was the second day of Tihar, my favorite Nepali festival.  The first day is the day of the crow.  That's when strings of penants get hung across all the streets.  The second day is the day of the dog.  There are many dogs in Kathmandu.  They all seem feral.  They're mangy specimens that seemingly cannot be part of any human family.  Many failed to learn the rules of the road and have only three legs left as a result.  The third day, this morning, is the time of the cow.  This evening is the goddess Lakshmi's time.  Everyone must light candles at every window tonight.  It is the festival of light.  Everyone will be grateful for the wealth of the harvest.  The fourth day does not honor any specific being. 
 
On the fifth day girls must make tikka for their brothers.  They will prepare special food and garlands of flowers.  They will make a puja (honorific celebration ceremony) in which they will offer the special food to their brothers and place the tikka mark on their foreheads.  It is a beautiful ceremony, deeply serious, reverent, light-hearted and joyful all at the same time.  Doma, the girl whose schooling we fund, is the only child of her mother, Niran.  Niran's older sister has two sons, Tulan and Milan, and a daughter, Sonam.  Tulan and Milan are Doma's brothers as well as Sonam's, so both girls will make puja for them.  Niran's brother has one son, Asiz, and no daughters.  Because Asiz is Doma's mother's brother's son, he is not Doma's brother.  In traditional society they could get married.  A girl can not make tikka for a boy she could marry.  The government outlawed marryiage between cousins but it still happens in the villages. 
 
But returning to the dogs - three sat beside the road this morning as I walked to the cyber.  They wore complacent expressions and galrlands of flowers round the neck.  For those dogs, yesterday was their day.  They're cheerfully making it last.


10:16 PM GMT  |  Read comments(0)

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